Blocking is the foundation of traditional hat making. It is the process of shaping a flat or loose material into a three-dimensional hat using a wooden block, steam, and the milliner's hands. Every hat I create begins with this centuries-old technique.
"Blocking is the most meditative part of my day. Just me, the material, the steam, and the block. There is something deeply satisfying about watching a flat piece of straw or felt transform into a beautiful, structured shape under your hands."
— Kathryn Lee
Step 1: Prepare the Material
For straw and sinamay, the material is soaked in water or steamed until it becomes pliable. For felt, it is dampened and warmed. The goal is to make the fibres flexible enough to stretch over the block without tearing or cracking. Getting this right requires experience because too much moisture damages the fibres, and too little leaves them stiff.
Step 2: Stretch Over the Block
The wet material is pulled over the wooden block, working from the crown outward. Pins hold the fabric in place as it is stretched and smoothed. The milliner works quickly and carefully, pulling out wrinkles and ensuring even tension. This step requires real skill: too much force tears the material, and too little leaves it loose and shapeless.
Step 3: Pin and Dry
Once the material is smooth and taut over the block, it is pinned securely and left to dry completely. This can take anywhere from a few hours to overnight, depending on the material and humidity. As it dries, the fibres set into the shape of the block permanently.
Step 4: Remove and Finish
Once fully dry, the hat is carefully unpinned and removed from the block. The raw edges are trimmed, millinery wire is sewn into the brim edge to hold shape and allow manipulation, and petersham ribbon is fitted inside the crown for comfort. The blocked shape will hold for years, even decades, which is why a quality hat maintains its form through countless wearings.
Key Millinery Terms
Blocking: shaping material over a wooden form. Hat block: the carved wooden form. Petersham ribbon: grosgrain ribbon inside the crown for comfort and fit. Wired brim: millinery wire sewn into the brim edge to hold shape.
