Every season brings new energy to the millinery world. Here is what I am seeing, making, and loving for the 2026 racing season, and a few things I am happy to leave behind.
"Trends in millinery move more slowly than in mainstream fashion, and that is a good thing. The best hats are timeless. But there are always fresh ideas worth embracing."
— Kathryn Lee
What Is In for 2026
- Sculptural simplicity: Clean, architectural shapes with minimal trimming. A single sweeping curve of sinamay, an asymmetric brim, or a bold crown that needs nothing else.
- Natural materials: Clients are asking about material origins. Natural straws, ethically sourced feathers, and vintage blocks are in strong demand.
- Warm earth tones: Terracotta, sage, ochre, warm blush, and olive. These tones feel grounded and flattering across skin tones.
- Headbands and crowns: Double headbands, jewelled crowns, and tiara-style pieces continue to rise.
- Vintage references: 1940s and 1950s shapes. Pillboxes and cloches are making a strong comeback.
- Single dramatic feathers: One bold plume, placed with intention, rather than a cluster of competing feathers.
- Transparency: Crinoline, open-weave sinamay, and see-through brims add lightness and modernity.
- Asymmetry: Off-centre placement, uneven brims, and unexpected angles.
What Is Out
- Tiny fascinators on combs: Too small reads as an afterthought. Judges and photographers can tell.
- Matchy-matchy: Hat exactly matching the outfit colour feels dated. Coordination is in, cloning is out.
- Mass-produced clips: Plastic headbands with glued-on flowers from department stores are never the answer.
- Overly busy trimmings: Multiple types of flowers, feathers, and netting on one hat. One hero element, beautifully executed, is the new standard.
Timeless Beats Trendy
The safest investment is a hat that transcends trends. Classic shapes in quality materials, made by a professional milliner, will look as relevant in photos five years from now as they do today.
