Choosing a hat that flatters your face is not guesswork. There are genuine principles of proportion that work every time. As a milliner, reading face shapes is one of the first things I do in every consultation. Here is how to do it yourself.
"I can usually tell within seconds which shapes will suit a client. But the joy is in the trying on. Women are always surprised by what works. The shape they thought would suit them is often not the one that makes them glow."
— Kathryn Lee
Oval Face
Oval faces are balanced and versatile. Lucky you. Almost every hat shape works: wide-brims, pillboxes, berets, fedoras, and fascinators. The key is to avoid anything that covers too much of your face, because your natural proportions are your greatest asset.
Round Face
The goal is to create the illusion of length. Angular shapes, asymmetric brims, and hats worn at an angle all help. A tall crown adds height. Avoid perfectly round shapes like cloches and shallow berets, which can echo the roundness instead of balancing it. A medium-brimmed hat with a slight tilt is often the most flattering choice.
Long or Oblong Face
Width is your friend. Wide brims, horizontal designs, and hats that sit lower on the forehead help balance a longer face. A boater with its flat crown and horizontal brim is particularly flattering. Avoid very tall crowns and narrow shapes that add more height.
Heart-Shaped Face
A wider forehead and narrow chin call for hats that do not add width at the top. Medium brims, cloches, and styles that sit back on the head work beautifully. A percher worn to one side is stunning on a heart-shaped face. Avoid very wide brims that exaggerate the forehead-to-chin ratio.
Square Face
Rounded shapes and soft curves complement the strong angles of a square face. Berets, rounded crowns, and asymmetric designs add softness. Avoid very structured, boxy shapes that mirror the jawline. A wide-brim worn slightly tilted creates a lovely contrast.
The Best Advice
Try before you buy. Photos and guidelines help, but nothing replaces putting a hat on your head and seeing how it works with your features. This is why a consultation with a milliner is so valuable. We can show you shapes you would never have considered.
