A bespoke hat is more than a beautiful object. It is a collaboration between milliner and client, shaped by conversation, craftsmanship, and a deep understanding of who you are and how you want to feel. Here is what happens behind the scenes when you commission a piece from my atelier.
"My background in hair and makeup gives me an understanding of how a hat frames the face and works with a person's features. I consider how light falls, how colours interact with skin tone, and how proportion affects the overall look."
— Kathryn Lee
Step 1: The Consultation
Everything begins with a conversation. I want to know about the event, your outfit, the colours you are drawn to, and how you want to feel on the day. We discuss your face shape, your height, your hair colour. You try on different shapes from my collection so we can discover what works. Many clients are surprised by what suits them. The shape they thought would work is often not the one that makes them glow.
Step 2: Design and Materials
Based on our consultation, I sketch designs and select materials. I might choose parisisal straw for a summer carnival, fur felt for an autumn event, or sinamay for a sculptural headpiece. I pull feathers, silk flowers, veiling, and trimmings from my collection to build a palette.
Step 3: Blocking
The hat begins on a wooden block. I select from my collection of over 170 vintage hat blocks, some dating back to the 1920s, and steam or soak the material until it becomes pliable. I stretch it over the block, pin it, and leave it to dry into the perfect shape.
Step 4: Trimming and Finishing
Once the base shape is set, I add the trimming: hand-stitching flowers, curling feathers, attaching veiling, and adding internal combs and petersham ribbon for comfort and fit. Every stitch is done by hand, and I check the piece from every angle.
Step 5: The Fitting
You come in, try on the finished piece, and we make any final adjustments. The hat is fitted to your head, the angle is perfected, and you leave with something made for you and no one else.
Timeline
Bespoke pieces take four to six weeks. For major events like Melbourne Cup Carnival, I recommend booking your consultation at least two months ahead. Popular dates fill fast.
