The material is where every hat begins. Choosing the right one affects how a hat looks, how it feels, how long it lasts, and which events it suits. Here is your guide to the materials I work with daily in my atelier.
"I tell clients: the material is the personality of the hat. Straw says summer and lightness. Felt says autumn and warmth. Sinamay says anything you want it to."
— Kathryn Lee
Sinamay
Sinamay is made from the fibres of the abaca plant, a relative of the banana. It is lightweight, can be sculpted into almost any shape, and takes dye beautifully. Sinamay is the most versatile millinery material and works year-round. It is the material I reach for most often.
Parisisal Straw
Parisisal is a fine, smooth, luxurious straw that holds shapes beautifully. It has a natural sheen that photographs well, making it ideal for racing events. Lightweight enough for tropical carnivals like Cairns, elegant enough for Flemington.
Fur Felt
Fur felt, made from rabbit or beaver fur, is smooth, warm, and classic. It is the material of autumn and winter racing: the Caulfield Cup, Derby Day, and cooler-weather events. Fur felt develops beautiful character with age and can last decades with proper care.
Jinsin
A woven fibre that is stiff and architectural. Jinsin creates structured, modern shapes and holds its form without wiring. It works year-round and is popular for contemporary, sculptural headpieces.
Crinoline (Horsehair)
Crinoline is a sheer, stiff mesh that creates volume and transparency. It adds drama without weight, making it perfect for larger headpieces that need to feel light. Crinoline brims and decorative elements catch the light beautifully.
Silk
Silk brings luxury to any hat. It can be draped, sculpted, twisted into flowers, or used to wrap entire forms. Silk roses, peonies, and other hand-made flowers are a signature element in couture millinery.
Seasonal Guide
Summer racing (Oct to Mar in Australia): straw, sinamay, parisisal, crinoline, lightweight felt. Winter racing (Apr to Sep): fur felt, wool felt, velvet, heavy silk. Tropical events like Cairns and Darwin: lightweight straw, sinamay, open-weave crinoline. Avoid heavy felt in the tropics.
